Thursday, October 30, 2008

Home at last

After leaving the hotel in Tokyo today at 2:00 in the afternoon, I arrived home at 7:00 p.m. tonight. No, it wasn't a 5 hour journey but rather a 19 hour journey due to crossing the international date line.

It's nice to be home and now I will sleep, hopefully.

Monday, October 27, 2008

sushi!

We went out for sushi last night. We went to a "conveyor belt" sushi restaurant where there is sushi rolling past us as we sit at the counter. I take whatever I want and pay based on the color and number of plates I take. It is so good! I had shrimp, raw tuna, raw salmon, california rolls, and some edamame (soy beans). I am going to miss Japan.



This is Andy, a teacher from New York, who really, really loves sushi. Actually, he likes anything that is food.

Home stay and Japanese Tea Ceremony

We got up early on Saturday so we could leave on our homestay with a Japanese family. My mama-san (Japanese mother) is name Junko (with a long u sound). Her husband is a university professor and was at a conference so it was just the two of us at her home this weekend.

We began the visit by making lunch, okonomiyaki, but prepared Osaki style where everything is mixed together rather than layered. It was delicious! I was a little nervous when she said she was adding squid but cooked squid is much better than raw!

When I enter her home, I removed my shoes and put on slippers like everyone in Japan does. When I enter the bathroom, I remove my slippers and put on a different pair of slippers used only in the bathroom. When I enter rooms with the straw tatami mats, I must remove my slippers and go with stocking feet. It's hard to remember every time you leave one room for another!



We ran some errands and got to stop at the grocery store. It was very similar in size to a SuperTarget and that surprised me! I thought it would be much smaller. There were some very different foods but many foods that would be very familiar. Look carefully at the photos.









Junko invited her friend over for dinner, a combination of boiled items.



Then they surprised me by dressing me in a kimono for a traditional tea ceremony. They were shocked that this was my first tea ceremony. You can see that I'm a little taller than most Japanese women. The white "slip" is suppose to go down to my ankles!



The tea ceremony is a special ceremony that follows a very precise routine. I'm not sure what the meaning of every part is but I enjoyed the green tea. I first started with a small candy treat that I placed on a small stack of paper used as a plate. I was taught how to hold the cup with one hand underneath, the other cupped around the cup. I had to turn the cup in a circle before sipping the tea.



I watched carefully as Junko prepared the tea one cup at a time. In fact, there's only a small amount in the bottom of the cup. She put some green tea powder in the bottom of the cup, added boiling water, then whisked it quickly for at least a minute.



And then I had a try at it. I am proud to say that Junko said the tea was well prepared. I'm not sure how I could mess up but they did say that the tea can be prepared poorly.



And then it was time for bed. I was so tired!

Friday, October 24, 2008

Today we visited an arts high school in Hiroshima. WOW! It earns it reputation of being one of the most prestigious high schools. I learned to play a little Japanese flute and do some Japanese calligraphy. I made signs for the library doors! We also learned to play a Japanese flute. This one the instructor made out of PVC pipe for all of us!





I am leaving tomorrow morning to stay with my host family overnight, then head back to a different hotel called a ryoken which is a traditional Japanese hotel with futon mattresses on the mats on the floor. I'm looking forward to both evenings. We will go back to Tokyo on Monday night on the bullet train. I won’t have Internet access until I return to Tokyo.

The rest of next week is filled with seminar sessions and some free evenings to explore Tokyo, then I head back to the United States on Thursday. Where did the time go?

I love being in Japan and feel so comfortable here. I didn't expect to feel that way. I expected to love Japan but to have it feel more "foreign" to me. I don't think there's any better sign of a successful journey than that!

Thursday, October 23, 2008

I did it!

We went out for sushi tonight. I like sushi but I'm usually pretty safe with what I choose to eat but tonight I had octopus, eel, squid, raw salmon, salmon eggs, shrimp and crab. The octopus didn't have much taste but it was chewy, same with the squid. I told my friend that the salmon roe (eggs) squish like a pimple popping and she thought that was gross. The salmon and shrimp were my favorite. I forgot my camera so I'm waiting for a photo from my friend and then you can see what I ate.

What do you think? Would you eat this?

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Photos from the elementary school

I thought I'd post a few photos of my day at the elementary school so it helps you to have a picture in your mind when I talk to you later today.

Hi everyone!

I'm looking forward to seeing some of you later today. I want to warn you that it will be 4:45 a.m. on Thursday in Japan when I talk to you at 3:00 p.m. on Wednesday so you may catch me in my pajamas!

Today we visited an elementary school in Japan and I can't wait to tell you about it. There are things that are very similar (such as happy children) and things that are very different (such as students serving lunch in their classrooms).

Time to head to dinner so I can get to bed early tonight.

Think of some interesting questions!

Monday, October 20, 2008

Peace

On August 6, 1945 at 8:15, Hiroshima became the first victim of an Atomic bombing. The effects were devastating with over 160,000 people dead by the end of the year. Nearly everything within a 3 mile radius of the hypocenter was destroyed but even more devastating was the effects of the radiation from the bomb on the people of Hiroshima in the coming weeks, months and years.



Sadako was 2 at the time of the bombing but due to the effects of radiation, developed leukemia at age 12 and was given a short time to live. When her friend visited her in the hospital with a paper crane telling her about the Japanese story of getting your wish if you make 1000 paper cranes, Sadako set to work. She didn't finish the 1000 cranes before she died but her friends did. Now there's a memorial to Sadako (look for the book in the library- there are two versions) that is called The Children's Peace Monument. Children from all over the world send hundreds of thousands paper cranes to Hiroshima to be displayed at the monument. When we visited, a group of sixth graders were presenting their paper cranes. The video is about 12 minutes long but it's worth it.



I also had the good fortune to hear a survivor of the bombing speak. His story was interesting but even more fascinating was his complete lack of anger about the bombing. "I hate the bomb but I don't hate people." The entire focus of the Peace Park is to promote peace throughout the world, to honor those affected by the bombing and to do everything possible to ensure that there will never be another Hiroshima.

Think about that. Sometimes we get so angry about someone cutting in the lunch line, or saying something hurtful. These people had their city destroyed, their homes burned, their bodies injured, but yet they don't hate. They want peace in our world.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Miyajima

Observations

Observations

There are few trash cans in Tokyo, almost none. There are none in the conference rooms at the hotel or in the hallways. There are almost none on the street but there is no litter. When I have seen trash cans, they are always attached to recycling bins where people separate their trash. The trash cans were eliminated after some terrorist incidents in other parts of the world but it makes me wonder why we have trash cans only steps away from almost everyplace we go but we have garbage nearly everywhere.

Cell phones are all over Japan but I rarely hear one ring or see anyone talk on their cell phone in public. No one talks on their cell phone in the subways or walking down the street, texting yes, talking no.

American teachers are loud. I can always tell when there are people from our group nearby because I hear loud talking. The Japanese don’t talk in elevators or talk loudly when walking down the street or in hotel hallways.

I mentioned this before but all the Japanese people that I’ve encountered have been extraordinarily helpful, going out of their way to make sure I find my way. I’ve since read that this isn’t always the case and there are incidents of restaurants not serving non-Japanese people.

Japanese bathrooms are so cool. The toilet seats even in the train station are heated, have sound effects to drown out the sounds of, well, you get the idea. Even water that sprays from the toilet seat to, well, you get the idea.

Generally speaking, Japanese people dress up much more than we do. The sloppy t-shirts, jeans and tennis shoes just isn’t seen much here.

There are very few horns honking on the street. When I hear a horn it’s usually to give someone a signal to “go ahead”.

Although the Japanese have been so helpful and friendly, look out on the subway. It’s every person for him or herself. People push and don’t pause to let others in unless you just shove your way in but they aren’t offended by that either.

Attention to detail is highly valued. I went to a thrift store to buy a kimono. When I got to the register, my kimono was very neatly refolded and put carefully in a bag. My package, change, receipt, everything is always handed to me with two hands and a bow of the head.

Food is beautifully presented as well with the same attention to detail. Even my box lunch on the train had 4 different sandwiches, all trimmed to fit the special compartment.

People often wear surgical masks here. I’ve been told that it’s sometimes due to allergies but if someone has a cold they will wear a mask so they don’t spread germs everywhere. Isn’t that thoughtful?

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Ghibli Museum and really nice people

Today was the only day that we could do whatever we want to do so I chose to go to the Ghibli Museum, shopping for manga, and to Kamakura. It was too much to cram in to a single day and it was ambitious since Kamakura is an hour outside of Tokyo and requires multiple train transfers. I'm learning that there is even less English spoken as I move out of Tokyo but I did it! And I made it back with no major mishaps, thanks to the kindness of many Japanese people who had the unfortunate luck to end up next to me when I had a question.

Let me stop here because this has amazed me over and over. Without exception, every time I ask directions from someone in Japan they stop, give me their undivided attention, leave what they are doing to show me exactly where I need to be, and track me down if I start going the wrong direction. In fact, one gentleman on the train today walked me to a different platform rather than just telling me where I needed to be. Another woman who didn't know the answer to my question, took my tour book over to another complete stranger to ask for help. She returned to us while he walked to a policeman out of our sight to get the directions, give them to the young woman who then interpreted them to us. Would I do that? I try to be helpful but I'm not that helpful without exception. And I usually point someone in the right direction.

Anyway, back to the Ghibli. Studio Ghibli is the creator, or rather Hayao Miyazaki is the creator, of films such a Spirited Away, the winner of an Academy Award. I couldn't take photos in the museum and it's hard to describe it. It's for adults and children to experience how animation is created in a very whimsical and imaginative way. There were exhibits to show how movement is created in animation, various drawings and storyboards, things to manipulate to show how backgrounds can be used with the other movement layered on top. I saw a short film that hasn't been seen outside the Ghibli but I did buy the book because it was so delightful. It was an experience that the adults enjoyed as much as the small children. The tickets are very difficult to buy; in fact I had to order mine in the US or I wouldn't have been able to go.



















I was able to take outdoor photos so here's me with the giant robot (from Laputa, on the roof of the museum. My mom likes to see my face on the blog.













Here's the sign on the way to let us know we were going the right direction.


















Here's probably the coolest drinking fountain ever.













Kids love pumping the water. Below is the entrance to the museum.































The most fun fish bench ever. You can turn the crank on the eye and it makes sounds.

What's on TV at 3 a.m?

Television isn't much different in Japan then in the U.S.A. There are lots of infomercials, news (lots about the election taking place in the U.S.), and not very interesting shows.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Street vendors

We took the Subway to Shibuya station last night where they have the statue of Hachiko, the dog who met his owner every evening as he got off the train and continued for seven years after his owner died.

There were many things we did but I want to show you the street vendors we discovered on our walk. There was a big boxing match and so there were food vendors outside the stadium, much like you'd see in the U.S. but the food was a little different. What would you choose to eat?













I had the Okonomiyaki, also referred to as Japanese pizza. It's in the last two videos. It was tasty, though the white sauce they put on it was mayonnaise. They put that on a lot of different things here.

I ended the evening with a trip to the 100 yen store, or the Japanese dollar store. THAT was fun! You'll have to go to the see the photos for that.

Tsukiji Market

We left for Tsukiji Market this morning at 4:15 to experience what is the largest fish market in the world. I didn't know what to expect and now I'm having a hard time describing it.

First, it's HUGE. It's in many buildings, one for fruits and vegetables, one for fish, one for shrimp, one for the tuna- the most well-known auction. It's so busy and chaotic but everyone knows what they're doing and where they are going but the tourists, who quite frankly, are in the way. There is no choice but to be on high-alert all the time or you will get run over. To give you a glimpse of the busyness...



We walked all around the market for two hours. It's loud, it's chaotic and full of colors and smells- and everyone, but the tourists, knows what they're doing. They auction off many things throughout the morning but the most popular auction (look up this word if you don't know it!) is the tuna auction. According to the Japan Times, a 202 kg bluefin tuna fetched over $20 million dollars. Yes, for one very large tuna.



There are over 400 different kinds of fish sold and auctioned at the market. I got a closer look at the shrimp auction. I didn't realize until after I left that it was a no admittance area but no one seemed to mind that I was there taking photos. Notice the men with the clipboards. They give signals to the auctioneer with their hands and fingers. When they hold up their clipboard, it's when they are bidding and don't want other to know what they are willing to pay. They better know what they're doing or it could cost them a lot of money!



Go to the Picasa website for more photos.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Hi sixth graders!

All your comments made my day! I couldn't publish most of them because you included your first and last name. If you want them to show up on the web, just use your first name or initials.

So in answer to some of your questions.

* Yes, Japanese students learn English. There are still many people who don't speak English but there's enough that I got to and from the fish market today!

*The books that are on the blog are either in the library or are ordered already so look for them!

*The food is very fresh here. Some things taste very similar or the same, some are prepared so much better and some, well, I haven't had the nerve to try them yet.

*Kyogen was funny but not "roll on the floor" funny. The story was about a man who was avoiding work by pretending to have a cramp in his leg. The other man was trying to trick him into working by telling him about a big party and the man's cramp miraculously vanished. When he found out the party was made up and he had to work, the cramp returned. I bought a video of the performance and the scripts so you can try it when I get back!

*Japan time is 14 hours ahead of MN time. So it's 7:30 a.m. here and 5:30 p.m. in MN. I hope you had a great day in school and you enjoy your four day weekend.

Kyogen

Kyogen is a form of Japanese theater that is 400 years old. It is humorous and has an unusual vocal pattern that is hard to describe so I videotaped a minute of the show that we saw. Kyogen is typically done in Japanese but Don Kenny has studied the art for over 40 years and has translated many plays into English.




There is also songs in Kyogen, though it won't sound much like the singing you usually hear.



Here are a few interesting facts. No makeup is used in Kyogen but sometimes masks are used. There are only five masks used in Kyogen, one representing the devil, one for happiness, one for animals and two for women, one young but ugly and the other old and angry. Only men can be actors in Kyogen so all women are played by men.

Plays can last for 12 hours! Tickets are sold for half the play at a time, sometimes just a one hour act at a time.

What do you think of this form of theater?

New photos

We are having a great day. I posted a new batch of photos with captions that tell about what we've done so far today. Check them out by clicking on the slide show to the right. It will take you to Picasa where you can view them one by one or as a slide show.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

I'm in Tokyo!

I’ve been up for 24 hours now but it’s been a great day. After our 10 ½ hour flight and 1 ½ hour bus ride, we met a Fulbright volunteer who took us to dinner. But first, have you figured out why I arrived 27 hours after I left San Francisco? Here's a video that might help you.

We went to a restaurant called Wind and Flowers where we removed our shoes upon arriving and put them in small wooden lockers. We sat on the floor (this one did have an area to put your feet so it was like sitting in a chair. We sat in a small room with this sliding walls so we could hear others but not see them. The menu had many unfamiliar items so we picked a couple and enjoyed hearing about Japan from Satoshi Miyajima, a university law professor who lived in Chicago for two years.

Our first menu item arrived- yakitori- marinated meat on a stick. I know I had a couple of pieces of chicken but I’m not sure about the other two I ate. We ordered the variety plate so it could have included anything on the menu, including horse.

Next we ordered a variety soup. There were fish balls, tofu, Chinese radish, boiled eggs, some kind of dried fish and a few things I couldn’t identify. It was tasty. It makes me realize how narrow my view is about what I consider “acceptable” food to eat. There was a dish that has squid guts in it and our host thought it sounded really good, or sushami made with horse meat. I eat cow meat, why not horse? But I haven’t yet!

























Here is our host ordering for us. The waiter comes in and kneels on the floor.













The reception that we’ve received here is so gracious and special. There are people at every turn welcoming us.

And as a final note, the Japanese are serious about their umbrellas! There are racks of umbrellas outside our hotel (locked) that people can borrow or rent. Here's an example.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Let the adventure begin!


I'm all packed and heading to the San Francisco airport this morning for my flight to Tokyo. It's fun, and a little strange, to travel with 160 people I don't know and will spend the next 19 days with. Everyone is in the same boat (or plane?) so it's been easy to get to know other teachers and administrators. There are four of us from MN.

We had our orientation yesterday. We learned some important etiquette lessons which makes me realize how silly I'm likely to look when I forget. I'll be sure to post about those things! We also found out that we are the last teachers to participate in this program as funding has been cut. It makes me even more grateful to be here.

Last night we went to the residence of Japanese Consul General Yasumasa Nagamine in San Francisco for a nice reception and tasty food.


















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My flight leaves at 11:30 a.m today (Monday) and arrives Tuesday at 2:30 p.m. That's 27 hours later but the flight is only 9 hours. Explain that!